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Southwark
Cathedral, the Cathedral Church of St Saviour and St Mary
Overie, has the least attractive
setting of any cathedral in England. It stands below
road level, beside London Bridge, surrounded by warehouses
and dominated by a railway viaduct. However, London's
oldest Gothic building has a fascinating history and great
architectural interest.
Southwark has been a place of
worship for over 1,000 years.
Until the 19th century Southwark
came under the diocese of Winchester, and from the 12th century
the Bishops of Winchester had their London palace close by.
However, Southwark's association with Winchester goes back
to St Swithin himself, who set up a college of priests along
this stretch of the Thames in the 9th century, and there was
a monastery here at the time of Edward the Confessor.
There is no trace of the early
church and little remains of the first Norman church of St
Mary Overie (over the water). St Mary's was an Augustinian
house, founded in the 11th century, and served by the Canons
Regular of that order.
In 1206 a disastrous fire destroyed
nearly everything and the earliest parts of the present church
date from the rebuilding that followed.
A magnificent Gothic church,
with a fine choir and retrochoir, was completed by the 14th
century. Another fire severely damaged this building
but this was repaired and Southwark remained an important
Augustinian house until the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
When Southwark surrendered to
Henry VIII in 1539 the priory church of St Mary Overie became
the parish church of St Saviour, Southwark. Under the
last Roman Catholic Bishop of Winchester, Stephen Gardiner,
Southwark enjoyed a short renaissance but after his death
the building fell into disrepair.
At the end of the 16th century
and early-17th century the borough of Southwark enjoyed a
period of great prosperity. This was London's first
theatre-land and the Globe,
Rose and Swan were all situated
here.
In 1614 the parishioners of
Southwark purchased the church from James I and restored it.
During the Civil War the neighbouring Winchester Palace
was converted into a prison and left to decay. The
church survived but by the mid-19th century the building was
in such a ruinous state that many felt it should be pulled
down. Although the nave was demolished the choir and
retrochoir were extensively restored.
In the late-19th century, when
it was decided that Southwark should become the cathedral
of a new South London diocese, major building work was needed
to prepare the church for its new responsibilities, and in
1889 - 97 a new nave was constructed. This was designed by
Sir Arthur Blomfield and is one of England's most successful
Victorian Gothic buildings.
Southwark was elevated to the
status of cathedral in 1905 but, as it still serves as a parish
church, the head of its Chapter is a provost and not a dean.
Southwark Cathedral's great glory
is its Early English choir, with five bays and a triple arcaded
clerestory complemented by the splendid retrochoir which dates
from a similar period. Between these is a magnificent
early-16th century reredos with Victorian figures.
In the 1930s Sir Ninian Comper
carried out restoration work, including the tombs of John
Gower, the 15th century poet and contemporary of Chaucer,
and Bishop Lancelot Andrews, who died in 1626. Comper
was also responsible for the east window and the furnishings
of all the four chapels.
Southwark's treasures include
a Jacobean communion table and one of the earliest wooden
effigies in England, a figure of a knight dating from the
last quarter of the 13th century.
John Harvard, founder of the
great American university, was born in Southwark and baptised
here in 1607. The cathedral's Harvard Chapel has been
lavishly decorated as a result of gifts from members of that
university.
The cathedral has literary connections
with Gower, Chaucer and Dickens and there is a monument to
Shakespeare carved in 1912 with a memorial window above, installed
in 1954. Bishop Talbot, the first Bishop of Southwark
in 1905, has a prominent memorial.
Admission free
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